Sportage front hubs

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Location: Canberra in Oz

OK every one, I know, "I told you so". One front hub failed to lock.

So.. What manual hubs fit. Zute says they look a lot like early Pajero!

Can I pick up second hand units that will fit and how much should I expect to pay, or does ARB or some one have them off the shelf, how much?

Also after having removed the hub, drained the water and repacked the bearings, I am puzzled how the vacuum units actual work. Does any one know where I can get an exploded view of the hub Question

Joined: 07 Aug 2003 Location: Townsville

Warn hubs From Ateco in Australia.

Manual hubs (don't even bother replacing the vacuum operated ones).
Part number: 60247
$360 or so for the set.

Very well known problem with the Vacuum hubs.....

Takes all of 10 mins each side to replace vacuum hubs, and about 20 mins to upgrade from semi-automatic ones.

Try

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?Cat=&C=25

for more Kia tech.

Could have a set (manuals) to spare in a couple of months (February, $200)

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Location: Canberra in Oz

Thanks for the post

ARB stock AVM hubs. $227 for a set for the Kia.

Should have them next week and will fit them the following weekend.

Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Location: Canberra in Oz

The new hubs are fitted and work a treat.

Now lower skirt on bull bar has a dint in it. Twisted Evil

Ah well.

Joined: 07 Aug 2003 Location: Townsville

Don't throw away your old vacuum hubs. As a fallback, they can be modified to be permanantly engaged (The "Canadian" modification), useful to use if one of your manual hubs throws a wobbly out in the middle of nowhere. (I shattered one of my Warns along the splines into about 6 segments)

First of all carefully spring the circlip from the knuckle side of the hub using a screwdriver (can spring out quite forcibly and cut your fingers, or it can be a stubborn SOB to remove). It is reasonably self explanatory once you have the hub apart, but what you do is to place the spring on the other side of the sliding part of the inner hub so that it pushes in to the (direction of the) knuckle instead of being held out by the spring, and reassemble.

Not recommended as a permanant cure, but will get you out of trouble. It does of course mean that the differential is connected to the axle on the affected side untill you get a new manual hub, so don't expect to get the same fuel economy, it gets worse by 1-2 l/100km, and it will increase the wear and tear on the diff/CV's in the long term.

As for the bullbar, dont think of it as a dent, think of it move lovingly as "Mother Natures Signature".....

"Ricers" write all the specs of their engine, suspension, and brake's etc, on the side of their car. We alllow Mother Nature to write a trip report on the side of ours...