Noisey Jeep diff

Joined: 21 Apr 2008 Location: Central Coast

Hi people, was just wondering if anyone had any ideas on the costs involved with repairing a noisey Jeep cherokee diff.
Just inspected a wagon 97 model cherokee limited, very nice condition, but a noisey diff, and the transfer case lever made a horrible crunching noise too, any ideas would be much appreciated.

Cheers Mick.

Joined: 29 Jul 2007 Location: Found

Gusted wrote:

Hi people, was just wondering if anyone had any ideas on the costs involved with repairing a noisey Jeep cherokee diff.
Just inspected a wagon 97 model cherokee limited, very nice condition, but a noisey diff, and the transfer case lever made a horrible crunching noise too, any ideas would be much appreciated.

Cheers Mick.

That noise is perfectly normal for a jeep, as is the smoke and eventual flames to ensue.

(Sorry, couldn't resist)

Joined: 16 Apr 2007 Location: Browns Plains, Brisbane

i got a quote on my diff today actually, it starts at $670 just for bearings and only goes up. Im gonna get one from the wreckers i think!

Joined: 28 Apr 2008 Location: Melbourne

Should cost around the $1000-$1200 mark if it is just the bearings using non-gen parts supplied and fitted.
99% of the time it is just the bearings but if you do need gears (you will never know until you open up and look) or an axle it can start to get very expensive.

Joined: 21 Apr 2008 Location: Central Coast

Thanks for the info guys, not a cheap proposition really considering it seems to be weak set up to start with, is it the carrier bearings that go, or the wheel bearings?

Mick..

Joined: 13 Jul 2008 Location: brisbane

Do yourself a big favour now. Go and put an ARB locker in as it is a lot stronger and has a lot more advantages as well. The costs are not much more considering the Jeep LSD's are not that good.

Joined: 29 Nov 2004 Location: Logan - Slacks Creek

I thought the Jeep LSD's were great.
Wouldn't the axles then become a weak point with the locker or is the diff just that much weaker, or stronger with a locker.

Shane

Joined: 13 Jul 2008 Location: brisbane

No the LSD in the Cherokee 'Dana 35' is not too crash hot. Yes you would be correct about the axles being the weak point. What you can do is fit the Super 35 kit (30 spline axles) from Wooders. If you think that would not be strong enough there are a lot more other options out there.
All depends on what you are using it for. Give Wooders a ring he knows his stuff.

Joined: 29 Nov 2004 Location: Logan - Slacks Creek

Maybe my LSD is tighter then most. It seems better then my GU. I might be fitting a locker sooner then I thought.

The other options are the Dana 44 but you have to replace the whole rear, cutting it all off and welding everything back on.

On the front you should consider a warn full floating kit. Stronger and you can get back home easier if you brake it. Others will explain more.

Shane

Joined: 13 Jul 2008 Location: brisbane

Thanks Shane. I will look into the Warn full floating set up. I also have read that you can get a D44 assem from the states with leaf hangers as standard. I think they come off the ute version cherokee.

Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 9:28 am

Gusted wrote:

Hi people, was just wondering if anyone had any ideas on the costs involved with repairing a noisey Jeep cherokee diff.
Just inspected a wagon 97 model cherokee limited, very nice condition, but a noisey diff, and the transfer case lever made a horrible crunching noise too, any ideas would be much appreciated.
Cheers Mick.

First you'd better tell us if it's the Front or Rear diff Wink

Front could be hubs, bearings or R&P.
Rear could be bbearings or R&P.
Transfer case noise - was that in 2wd? Fulltime &/or Parttime? Could be as simple as out of adjustment linkages or more serious like a strecthed chain. But really need more infor to help.

tojo_runner wrote:

i got a quote on my diff today actually, it starts at $670 just for bearings and only goes up. Im gonna get one from the wreckers i think!

$670 for bearings?? Was that a stealership reaming? Cause the bearings themselves aren't anywhere near that price. As for used diff - IMHO bit of a waste of $$ since you are buy bearings that are already worn and remember the bearings run on the axle shaft so they will be worn more too......IF you go this option IMHO get a TJ D44. But its gonna be more $$$.

whitemav wrote:

Should cost around the $1000-$1200 mark if it is just the bearings using non-gen parts supplied and fitted.
99% of the time it is just the bearings but if you do need gears (you will never know until you open up and look) or an axle it can start to get very expensive.

If the axle shafts are ok it shouldn't be that expensive. however if the axle shafts are worn then it will start to add up real fast.....

4WD Stuff wrote:

I thought the Jeep LSD's were great.
Wouldn't the axles then become a weak point with the locker or is the diff just that much weaker, or stronger with a locker.
Shane

We call them Trashloks for a reason Wink

they aren't THAT bad but they are clutch packs which tend to wear giving little enagement as the miles start to get higher. As I recall the Poootrol has a gear driven LSD and generally a good reputation so I;d be really surprised if the Jeep one worked better.....
But if planning to do the lockers it's the ideal time to ante up for a Super 35.

4WD Stuff wrote:

The other options are the Dana 44 but you have to replace the whole rear, cutting it all off and welding everything back on.
On the front you should consider a warn full floating kit. Stronger and you can get back home easier if you brake it. Others will explain more.
Shane

Dana44 is an option - butr remember it probably won't have the ratio you want so then it's regear and locker time anyhow so it's not really a "Cheap" option.
Front I think you mean the Freewheeling Kit (the front is already full floating) I would NOT consider one of these. There are PLENTY of people running upto 35" tyres without the Hub kit and I have seen far more Hub kits go boom than I have stock hubs (0). If going bigger than 35"s then the D30 should be tossed anyhow so again the Hub kit is a waste of $$.
There is a full float kit for the rear which IS a fair bit stronger than the stock setup - but it's fairly pricy so I'd suggest the Super 35 would be a better investment of $$ (about the same $$ but includes the locker).

Sorry waffle on but hope that helps some Very Happy

Joined: 29 Nov 2004 Location: Logan - Slacks Creek

Thanks for the corrections. The advantage of the free wheeling kit up front is that you can get back home if you stuff something up front. Otherwise you have to get a tilt tray to where ever you are wheeling. Correct me if I am wrong. My ZJ is different to the XJ here isn't it??

Shane