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date



Joined: 15 Jan 2008
Location: Cooma NSW

PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 5:24 pm Reply with quote Back to top

G'day all: I have an oil leak from high up on the R side of the engine. It drips onto the exhaust and most of it gets burnt, but I would like to fix it. I have read somewhere that there is a hatch plate covering the end of the camshaft, held in place by 2 - 12 mm bolts.
. How do you access them? I cannot even start to see them from the top. . . Do you get to them from underneath?
. What are the O rings? - Size, specification etc
. Has anyone done this job?

Thanks in advance
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icemanpaj



Joined: 15 Jul 2007
Location: Tongarra, near Wollongong, AUS

PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 6:49 pm Reply with quote Back to top

what motor 3.5l petrol or 2.8 td?

_________________
Pajero NL 2.8 TD GLX
31x10.5 M/T, ARB BAR, SNORKEL, 150L TANK, B J FLIP, MAN HUBS, PUMPING SUBS, DINTED REAR OVERHANG.
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-Scott-



Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Location: Adelaide

PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 8:29 pm Reply with quote Back to top

When I had this problem (oil dripping onto the exhaust manifold) it was the rocker cover gasket. The section over the exhaust ports was hard, and cracked into pieces as I removed it.

Fresh gaskets, no problem. Not a difficult job, just time consuming (have to pull the inlet plenum off.)

_________________
Pajero NJ GLS 3.0 V6
285/75-16 STTs, 2.85 Gears, RD110, 2" BL, OME, 120l tank, Bull Bar, snorkel
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Dexter



Joined: 03 Apr 2007
Location: Melburn!

PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 10:25 pm Reply with quote Back to top

-Scott- wrote:
When I had this problem (oil dripping onto the exhaust manifold) it was the rocker cover gasket. The section over the exhaust ports was hard, and cracked into pieces as I removed it.

Fresh gaskets, no problem. Not a difficult job, just time consuming (have to pull the inlet plenum off.)


Yes I am still trying to motivate myself to pull that damn plenum off so I can do my sparkies.
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NJV6



Joined: 18 Nov 2004
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 6:20 am Reply with quote Back to top

Ditto, the rocker gasket went hard and I had a hemorage.

Dexter, if yours is a DOHC you don't need to take the plenum off.

_________________
1994 NJ SWB, 3.5, 5 speed manual, 33's, Warn XD9000, 4.9 diffs, Front ARB, Factory Rear diff lock, Safari Snorkel
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date



Joined: 15 Jan 2008
Location: Cooma NSW

PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 8:21 am Reply with quote Back to top

Thanks guys. It is a 3.5 L engine and I have already tried to tighten the rocker cover bolts, but no result. I don't think it is the rocker cover, but cannot even see it properly, let alone get my great big hands into that area.

I have a 200000 service coming up (185000 now), and at that stage will no doubt strip it down properly to see and replace everything then. Meanwhile, I guess that I just have to put up with the oil dripping. It drips onto the exhaust pipe, getting there somehow over the starter motor. It seems to come from the back of the head, and that is why I think it is the cover over the end of the camshaft which is leaking (if there is a cover on these engines).

All I know is that it is a damned nuisance.
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Dexter



Joined: 03 Apr 2007
Location: Melburn!

PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2008 8:59 am Reply with quote Back to top

NJV6 wrote:
Ditto, the rocker gasket went hard and I had a hemorage.

Dexter, if yours is a DOHC you don't need to take the plenum off.


SOHC unfortunatly :( I have a bit of a leak but it comes and goes, I dont know if it just eventually got nice and clogged so it doesnt leak anymore, but I didnt do anything to fix it.
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gp339gm339



Joined: 04 May 2008
Location: melton

PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2008 6:49 pm Reply with quote Back to top

With you 200k service, make sure you do the timming belt and replace the water pump and oil seals.
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date



Joined: 15 Jan 2008
Location: Cooma NSW

PostPosted: Thu May 29, 2008 9:47 pm Reply with quote Back to top

gp339gm339:
Thanks for your comment - I intend to do that anyway - there was a minor oil leak from the crankshaft at 100000 km, but I didn't do anything with it then. It seems to have stopped after that effort. I didn't do the idler pulleys then either, but will do the lot this time - it is such a pain to get there later if needs be and I am getting too old to keep crawling on top and under the beast.

It is also a good time to replace the spark plugs AND LEADS! I had a backfire problem at about 140000 km. The plugs were done at 100000 km, but not the leads. The backfire did wonders to the airflow meter (it runs on gas), so I got a set of Top Gun leads and put them in. What a load of crap! Less than 10000 km later, it was farting something terrible and really blew the air cleaner and airflow meter to bits, so I stripped the intake manifold again and replaced the leads with a set of Bosch. No problems at present, but for the cost of a set of leads, it will be worthwhile to do it properly at the same time.

I also have my wife's 98 Magna to do at the same time, and it is dripping a bit of both oil and water, but not enough to cause me to do that job early - the Magna has about 10000 km to go. Again, it will have new plugs and leads as well as idler pulleys and seals, water pump etc. Anyone know a good bank manager I can see. I know - there is no such thing as a good bank manager! But hell - 2 timing belt kits, 2 sets of plugs and 2 sets of leads - that is going to beexpensive. But to their credit, neither vehicle has really cost us much so I cannot really complain. Having said that... I hope they aren't listening right now...
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date



Joined: 15 Jan 2008
Location: Cooma NSW

PostPosted: Sat May 31, 2008 3:07 pm Reply with quote Back to top

Found that damned oil leak at last!!! It was the hatch plate over the end of the camshaft. Now, all I have to do is to buy a new O ring or gasket (whicxhever is the right thing) and then figure out how to get my great boofy hands into that tiny space.

Thanks for yuor comments guys.
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date



Joined: 15 Jan 2008
Location: Cooma NSW

PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 10:20 am Reply with quote Back to top

I finally fixed the oil leak (at least I hope it is fixed). It wasn't too hard to do it. For the benefit of others, I decided to go genuine. The part number is MN176208, and it cost me $4.50.

It is an O ring 50 mm OD and 3.5 mm thick, so the next time, I'll go to the local hardware store and get one like that. The old one was baked hard and had flattened a bit as well. I would hope that a non-genuine part will cost much less that $4.50.
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