75 Series

Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Location: Cornubia

Hey,

Joining the ranks of 75 series ownership. i am going to look at a few next week. i have noticed that there are two different diesels. a 4.0 and a 4.2. is there any reason why i should choose one over the other?

Also any other things that i should look out for?

Cheers,
Sean

Joined: 27 Jan 2007 Location: Perth

get the 4.2 (1HZ) engine.

Much more reliable, with better fuel economy and a tad more power.

Have a look inside the chassis rails for evidence of the vehicle being in rusty environments.

Make sure the gearbox feels ok and 5th gear does not whine.

Everything else is fairly straight forward.

Joined: 27 Jun 2006 Location: nsw

check for rust in and around the bottom of the screen, and the bonnet hinges, armsup

rob

Joined: 04 Mar 2008 Location: melbourne

i maybe wrong but i believe the 1hz has a timing belt. make sure that has been recently changed or do it right after you get it. rear quarters are also prone to filling with water (if troopy). im not excactly sure how you look inside the chassis rails unless you have it ulta sounded or x-ray'd but i think thats only necessary in aircraft Wink

Joined: 26 Oct 2004 Location: Diamond Creek

give it a bit in reverse and make sure it doesn't jump out of gear.
and the 2h (4.0l) are heeeaaaapps slower than the 1hz(4.2l) ones. i think 1990 is when they upgraded to the 1hz.

Joined: 04 Aug 2005 Location: gold coast

stick ur finger in the holes in the chasy too see how much sand/ dirt is in there, if there heeps there a good chance it'l be rusting from the inside out.

pre 1990 uses the 60 sereis box too i think wich has a dog of a change and is not as strong as the later model boxes. when looking at the motors take the oil cap of and put ur and look/ feel how much smoke , blowback comes out. if theres heeps the engine is on it's way out i was told.
Make sure u put it in 4wd and lock the hubs and go for a lil spin in 4low ans 4high pumping the gas to make sure it dun jump out of low range.
might allso be worth looking at the body mounts to see if there flogged flat. (mine were) cab moved heeps..
The 1hz has more grunt and revs harder. but if ur not in a hurry the 2h has plenty down low and gets along quit niclly with a turbo on the side. these older models can be picked up quit a bit cheeper aswell. as not much changed cab wise u might save urself some buks piking up a older on and modding. than buying a more expensive 1hz model. The older model all so has the large 10 inch front diff but smaller cv's whereas the later model 1hz trucks have the smaller 8i front diff but run the larger 80 series cv's.
Ur call drive both and see what u like.

i've owned 2 75's and there a great truck to wheel specialy the utes.

other than that rust is the majour killer of 75's

good luck.

Joined: 05 Aug 2004 Location: VIC

known 2 wrote:

rust is the majour killer of 75's

Yep. Rust in the windscreen frame (under the 'screen, especially in the utes), rust in the rear 1/4's of troopy's. Rust in the bottoms of the doors. Rust in the (usually passenger side, strange?) footwell/floor, Rust in the sills. Rust in the 1/4 window frame (frame will wobble, and 1/4 window seal will leak)
They're not a car known to rust too badly, but these always seem to be the spots to go first!

Also check for cracks in the chassis around the steering box (hard to pick, though). Anything with over 200,000km on it will probably whine in 5th and maybe 4th, but seem to keep going for a while before the 'box needs a rebuild. Transfer case whine (road speed related, independent of gear) is worse.

-Stu Smile

Joined: 12 Feb 2007 Location: Australia

The 4.0L models also have a bigger front diff, they use the same low pinion diff as in the rear. The 4.2L models run a hi pinion front diff upfront which is a little smaller but runs slightly larger (i think ) CV's

Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Location: Cornubia

g'day,

thanks for all the replies. so i should go for 1hz.

Is there a decent turbo kit for these?

Also its in a ute so i don't need to worry bout extra panels Twisted Evil

what does it mean if it jumps out of gear or low range? is it an expensive fix? whats involved? can replacements be sourced from wreckers or other model cruisers?

sorry bout all the questions.

cheers,
Sean

Joined: 04 Aug 2005 Location: gold coast

mine use to jump out in 4wd , turns out it was just the selector fork, i think but it cost me a carton of rum to have fixed.
i never diagnosed why mine jumped out of low range other than my knee kept hitting the transfer lever offroad. though mine had 430,000k's and the box was very tired.

Joined: 11 May 2008 Location: Mackay, Queensland

yeah mate go the 4.2. also in 1993 they put disc brakes on the rears of the utes... check for rust in passenger floorwell, bottom of doors, window screen surround......

HTH
Neil

Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Location: Cornubia

how easy are 75s to modify?

I was thinking 35s. what would it take to get those on?

Also would i need to look at transfer case reduction gearing?

Also what are the going rates for the full sized tray canvas canopies?

Cheers,
Sean

Joined: 12 Feb 2007 Location: Australia

Sean wrote:

how easy are 75s to modify?

I was thinking 35s. what would it take to get those on?

Also would i need to look at transfer case reduction gearing?

Also what are the going rates for the full sized tray canvas canopies?

Cheers,
Sean

35's are easy, offset rims, or 60 rear diff and h9ilux hubs, cut front guards and your done! wont even need a lift. Gearing is a personal choice depending on what you drive. I run stock gearing and 35'' pedes and have no problems low 2nd is still useable in some stuff, mostly low 1st though

Joined: 05 Aug 2004 Location: VIC

Sean wrote:

how easy are 75s to modify?

I was thinking 35s. what would it take to get those on?

Also would i need to look at transfer case reduction gearing?

Also what are the going rates for the full sized tray canvas canopies?

Cheers,
Sean

35's are easy to fit, but every car/owner seems to vary. I ran true 35's with no modifications apart from reset stock springs. Gearing was great with the 35's - no need for reduction gears for my type of driving.

-Stu Smile

Joined: 04 Aug 2005 Location: gold coast

i had a 2i lift in my 75 and ran 35i bfg's and the front scrubed hard at full flex and greatly hinderd the ability to steer. big problem going through ruts. allso 35's may rub on ur front springs pending on what offset rims u use.

i would recomend if ur truck has lots of front wheel travel that a 2i spring lift and 2i body lift would be the way to go. the rear isn't a worry.

Joined: 23 Jul 2006 Location: Cornubia

Ok guys you have been great so far. I think i have found the ute that i am getting. i ave just one last question. what kind of fuel economy can i expect from a ute with a 1HZ and a full canvas canopy?

Cheers,
Sean

Joined: 05 Aug 2004 Location: VIC

Sean wrote:

Ok guys you have been great so far. I think i have found the ute that i am getting. i ave just one last question. what kind of fuel economy can i expect from a ute with a 1HZ and a full canvas canopy?

Cheers,
Sean

With standard sized tyres and assuming the canvas canopy isn't heuge, i'd expect 12-15l/100km

Joined: 29 Jul 2008 Location: Hervey Bay

G'day champ

i have a 1hz cab chassis, to your question of what turbo. i have a dts water cooled turbo on mine, though to a 2 1/2 inch exhaust with a high flow muffler. at the moment im runing around on about 12 pound. great truck, with a turbo very grunty. if you havent already brought one, i can tell you from experience to check the inlet manafold gasket and were they have plumbed the positive crankcase breath to, if it has a turbo.

happy looking, im sure you will not be disappointed

Joined: 29 Jul 2008 Location: Hervey Bay

i forgot to ad im getting around 12-13/100, but i havent worked exactly. and thats driving it like i sole it all the time. being a young fella i like to see that boost gauge hit 10 before i change!

happy looking