All round dual shocks on a bundy

Joined: 26 Mar 2005

Anyone ever put dual shocks on a bundy?

All round shocks and its coil sprung.

Joined: 29 May 2006 Location: Melbourne

you would have to weld different mounts to the rear diff and crossmember but fuel tank clearence would be an issue, in the front you could do it by welding another set of shock towers on or hoops. but why? you are probably jsut better off putting bigger, better quality units in, bundys are light and probably dont have the need for dual setup or is it for bling factor?

Joined: 26 Mar 2005

Bundy suspension is like a flat bottomed boat on the open sea. Already have stiff springs and large shocks. Dual shocks would probably solve the problem.

Joined: 29 May 2005 Location: Launceston, Tas

I doubt it. If it's that bad put one set of decent shocks in it - Like Bilstein 5125's.

Joined: 11 Aug 2004 Location: Brisbane

I used to have a bundy with tjm shocks and it handeled great for a shorty.
Dont waste your time on twin shocks unless you want to do OBC style events, just get rid of the shit shocks you have and get some decent shocks like bilstien, koni or even tough dogs.
You may also find the raduis arm bushes causing it to have issues

Joined: 29 May 2006 Location: Melbourne

what is the problem you are trying to fix, too stiff? not enough damping? too soft???

Joined: 26 Mar 2005

The body seems to sway all over the place and its very soft.

All bushings renewed and shocks are big bore. Springs are 80's.

Joined: 12 Feb 2007 Location: Australia

so you have something like 4'' of lift and it sways all over the join? wonder why... got the swaybars on still? all bushes in good nick ?

Joined: 26 Mar 2005

hulsty wrote:

so you have something like 4'' of lift and it sways all over the join? wonder why... got the swaybars on still? all bushes in good nick ?

3" lift and it does sway all over the place. Bushes are good. Sway bars are still on.

As mentioned before, its like a flat bottomed boat.

Joined: 29 May 2006 Location: Melbourne

skinny short wheel base and its 3" higher than normal, thats the first problem. second the valving in the shocks is too soft, try some adjustable shocks so you can run them through their settings to find one that works.

i run 4" lift with OEM but new 80 series shocks, they are a bit soft but good off road, body des roll but you just have to drive accordingly. the 80 series springs are bloody soft, if you dont like them go to a heavier spring rate all round, 3" for a bundy will most likely be custom though, try 2" susp. and 1" BL.

i dont think the cost and engineering involved in dualing the shocks would be worth it, you would be better spending the money on some shocks you can tune to your preferences.

Joined: 26 Mar 2005

I know of another bundy with same set up as mine and had the same characteristics. They installed all round dual shocks and transformed the vehicle.
I need to drive the vehicle myself.

Posted: Mon May 19, 2008 10:05 am

Installing 2 shock will not nessasarily fix your problem, you need to get the correct valving for your shocks. I doubt you would really need twin shocks, unless your racing your truck in high speed events. A single good shock with proper valving will easily do the job.

Layto....

Joined: 26 Mar 2005

Installing dual shocks is not an easy job. There's also added cost when it comes for shock replacement. I am not in any races or competition.

So whats a good large bore shock to use? Adjustable or not?

I am recommended Bilstien, but dunno where to get.

Joined: 11 Jun 2004 Location: Wheeling in my backyard

Koni do a larger bore shock. It's adjustable and re buildable also.

As Dale had asked, do you still have your sway bar installed?

Joined: 20 Aug 2006 Location: Western Brisbane

sierrajim wrote:

As Dale had asked, do you still have your sway bar installed?

gogo wrote:

3" lift and it does sway all over the place. Bushes are good. Sway bars are still on.

As mentioned before, its like a flat bottomed boat.

Joined: 26 Mar 2005

Highway-Star wrote:

sierrajim wrote:

As Dale had asked, do you still have your sway bar installed?

gogo wrote:

3" lift and it does sway all over the place. Bushes are good. Sway bars are still on.

As mentioned before, its like a flat bottomed boat.

Hmm...........is that a hint to remove the sway bars? Smile

Joined: 11 Jun 2004 Location: Wheeling in my backyard

gogo wrote:

Highway-Star wrote:

sierrajim wrote:

As Dale had asked, do you still have your sway bar installed?

gogo wrote:

3" lift and it does sway all over the place. Bushes are good. Sway bars are still on.

As mentioned before, its like a flat bottomed boat.

Hmm...........is that a hint to remove the sway bars? Smile

Sorry, brain fart when i asked that question.

removing your sway bar will make your problem worse.

Joined: 26 Mar 2005

sierrajim wrote:

gogo wrote:

Highway-Star wrote:

sierrajim wrote:

As Dale had asked, do you still have your sway bar installed?

gogo wrote:

3" lift and it does sway all over the place. Bushes are good. Sway bars are still on.

As mentioned before, its like a flat bottomed boat.

Hmm...........is that a hint to remove the sway bars? Smile

Sorry, brain fart when i asked that question.

removing your sway bar will make your problem worse.

I was wondering actually.

Anyway, would a set of koni shocks solve my problems? The bilstiens are a little pricey. Presently running a set of TJM lookalikes.....spin offs...imitations...I dunno.

Joined: 11 Jun 2004 Location: Wheeling in my backyard

gogo wrote:

Anyway, would a set of koni shocks solve my problems? The bilstiens are a little pricey. Presently running a set of TJM lookalikes.....spin offs...imitations...I dunno.

The Koni shocks would make the Bilsteins look cheap.

Your other alternative is to ditch the home brew suspension all together and buy a tuned suspension package for your vehicle such as Old Man emu. This way your spring rate matches your shocks which relates back to your vehicles approximate weight.

So you don't really mention what the problem is, flat bottom boats are quite stable yet hard riding while under way, sometimes more difficult to steer.

Hard ride
-stiff springs
-harsh valving in shocks
-shocks too short

"Floating" over the road?
-Did you do any form of castor adjustment when you lifted it?
-Bushes worn
-stuffed shocks
-Worn steering components
-bent diff housings/links/chassis
-worn steering box
-dodgy tyres or tyres with irregular wear

Or is your problem body roll? (more like a V bottom boat)
-springs may be to soft
-shocks may be stuffed
-bushes worn

Joined: 12 Feb 2007 Location: Australia

what tyres you running? I find when I got my 35'' simex on the car is as floaty as hell and generally shitter than normal on road. Probably due to massive size and bias contruction, combined with stuffed shocks too and its probably like yours, all over the shop!

Joined: 26 Mar 2005

hulsty wrote:

what tyres you running? I find when I got my 35'' simex on the car is as floaty as hell and generally shitter than normal on road. Probably due to massive size and bias contruction, combined with stuffed shocks too and its probably like yours, all over the shop!

Yes, and also on 31" too.

Joined: 09 Mar 2005

I have a LJ70 and can understand the issues with the bundy. The concept of 'floating around' is quite true.

Good quality shocks is the answer combined with stiff springs. Koni adjustable shocks.

Joined: 27 Feb 2005 Location: newy

before i cut mine up i had a 2" suspension lift which was ironman shocks and llovel springs, RTC dampner, a 2" body lift and no sway bars. it had heaps of body roll on corners but i just got used to it and enden up learning how far i could push it round corners befoer it would lift a tyre or 2!! Wink

as for rough i would say it was rough, before i did the suspension it was rough as it had flogged out shocks so it would bottom out all the time!!

i think Dual shocks is WAY overdoing it for a bundy as there not that heavy!

Evan