22RE - Rebuild

Joined: 20 Oct 2002 Location: Greenbank, Qld

Seeing as I have aquired one, I may as well use it as it will be better than a 21R with EFI

now, the motor chews oil and apprenlty has a low compression on 2 & 3 cylinders so it has to come apart

Is there anything worth doing to these motors like cams etc, anything which is simple, I want to get a few more ponies out of it if it is possible for not a huge outlay Question

I have headers for a 21/22R so should I leave it as is and just do intake mods?

Does anyone know what is involved in opening up the throtle body like LcEngineering do in the states?

Says its good for better throttle response, acceleration and HP - http://www.lcengineering.com/EFIsystems.htm - is this something i can do in the machine shop at work Question

Joined: 22 Oct 2002

I wouldn't bother rooting around with boring out throttle bodies ect!

Just put a basic rebuild kit threw it and wheel it!!!!

Hell i have Bits of Coke cans in my carb to make it run and an air filter thats never been cleaned and the water gets filled when it rains. So do you think you really need to do all that just to make tha farker RUN!!!!

However if ya really keen i would imagine someone would make a Cam for it that would enhace the perfomance! (ruff would most likely know).

Joined: 16 Jan 2003 Location: Brisbane, Southside

low buck power mods/ hot ups tips

Port matching the the intake and exhaust manifolds to the head
Balancing the engine
Blending and De- dagging intake port runners
Nice set of headers
Free flow aircleaners
Electronic ignition
Loose the engine fan and put on good thermos

Change pully sizes to reduce drag for engine belts.

Just some of these above mods i have done on a mild v8 holden and picked up over 65 peak horse power, with smoother throttle responce and better fuel economy..

As most of the above is achievable now that you are going to pull the engine down, i cant be all done prior to build up.

more drastic option for a small 4 cylinder torque engine is to increase lift at the cam a little and broaden the lobe center on the grind..
Most 4 cylinsers have anything from 108 -114 degree lobe centers

108 is getting real tight if you want the thing to idle nice and have good bottom end power, but when its on..ITS AWWWN !

Smooth the combusion cambers (de-dagg and burr and sharp edges) and CC the head and zero deck hieght or at least CC the piston bore area as well depending if you are using dished pistons...get them all the same...it takes that little bit extra effort but a small amount of time with a burette and grease can make for a nice running engine..

As most engines will have the engine bored and decked its easier to check all that prior and them machine the block and head..

End cost may add up to an extra 50% of labour cost involved for a quicky build, but can make it all seem worth while when you jump on the loud pedal

Joined: 24 Feb 2003 Location: Melbourne

bubs.. you doing this all yourself? like strip & rebuild?

Joined: 20 Oct 2002 Location: Greenbank, Qld

robbie wrote:

bubs.. you doing this all yourself? like strip & rebuild?

yes, have helped on a 21R rebuild, and i wanna do this one myself - as much as i can

Joined: 20 Oct 2002 Location: Greenbank, Qld

Punchy wrote:

low buck power mods/ hot ups tips

Port matching the the intake and exhaust manifolds to the head
Balancing the engine
Blending and De- dagging intake port runners
Nice set of headers
Free flow aircleaners
Electronic ignition
Loose the engine fan and put on good thermos

Change pully sizes to reduce drag for engine belts.

Just some of these above mods i have done on a mild v8 holden and picked up over 65 peak horse power, with smoother throttle responce and better fuel economy..

As most of the above is achievable now that you are going to pull the engine down, i cant be all done prior to build up.

more drastic option for a small 4 cylinder torque engine is to increase lift at the cam a little and broaden the lobe center on the grind..
Most 4 cylinsers have anything from 108 -114 degree lobe centers

108 is getting real tight if you want the thing to idle nice and have good bottom end power, but when its on..ITS AWWWN !

Smooth the combusion cambers (de-dagg and burr and sharp edges) and CC the head and zero deck hieght or at least CC the piston bore area as well depending if you are using dished pistons...get them all the same...it takes that little bit extra effort but a small amount of time with a burette and grease can make for a nice running engine..

As most engines will have the engine bored and decked its easier to check all that prior and them machine the block and head..

End cost may add up to an extra 50% of labour cost involved for a quicky build, but can make it all seem worth while when you jump on the loud pedal

port grinding is where you smooth all the pipes? Very Happy

from the inlet all the way through to the valve right?

like this http://www4.tpgi.com.au/users/loats/technical/7mge/headporting.html

so i wanna make it shiney, so i need a die grinder with some fine grain emory paper in and get cracking?

what is blending and de-dagging port runners?

Joined: 20 Oct 2002 Location: Greenbank

Sounds like the engine has a blown head gaskit if its down on Comp on 2 and 3.

Joined: 20 Oct 2002 Location: Greenbank, Qld

RUFF wrote:

Sounds like the engine has a blown head gaskit if its down on Comp on 2 and 3.

that would be the reason it uses oil as well Question

Joined: 20 Oct 2002 Location: Greenbank

bubs wrote:

that would be the reason it uses oil as well Question

I dont think so unless the head-gaskit is gone around an oil gallery. I have seen this before on other engines.

Joined: 28 Oct 2002 Location: Toowoomba

so i wanna make it shiney

NO ( It's better to leave it as you grind it, dont make it smooth)