2" lifting blocks between diff and leafs

Joined: 03 Jul 2003 Location: sydney

hey guys
i'm going to put blocks in between my leafs and diffs for a bit more lift but in the front the drag link rod and i think the knuckle arm is going to hit on the u-bolts. haven't put the blocks in yet but in know the ben hypolux has got them. it an 85 4runner so if anyones got any suggestions or solutions please comment.

cheers joel

Joined: 08 Nov 2002 Location: Sydney

ben has them in the back i dont think he runs em in the front, front would be easier to do a 2" dropped hanger and 2" shackles, much nicer and cleaner

Joined: 20 Oct 2002 Location: Greenbank, Qld

DO NOT PUT BLOCKS IN THE FRONT OF YOUR HILUX

do 2" dropped hangers with 2" extended shackles, get on to dave camp he sells dropped hangers I think, or sit down and nut it out your self

heres mine

Joined: 03 Jul 2003 Location: sydney

yeah makes sense
my spring hanger has already broken before and has been welded up.
what is your shackle extenion length?

Joined: 20 Oct 2002 Location: Greenbank, Qld

2"

Joined: 22 Oct 2002 Location: Your Mummas House!

tat ls gd bubbsy, very clean, little eavy but all very gd clean!!

Joined: 08 Nov 2002 Location: Sydney

BJ you been drinking at lunch ??

Joined: 22 Oct 2002 Location: Your Mummas House!

spilt water (i swear its 0nly water) all 0ver my jeyb0ard!!!

i jave l0st numer0us letter and number c0mbinati0ns, but using l337 and my sjillz i can just get by!!

great w0rj bubbsy!!

Joined: 04 Oct 2003 Location: Watagans

get 3" blocks in the rear you won`t have the hand brake cable problem or 2 1/5" might clear it

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2003 12:34 pm

Do it right and put in some kind of traction bar to limit axle wrap - the vehicle will handle better off road and will be a lot stronger in the rear overall.

Joined: 03 Jul 2003 Location: sydney

so if i drop my hangers and extened shackles, do if have to extend the torque rod? when i cut the hangers off, can i re-use them or is that to dodgey? also it was said about the 2 1/5" or more blocks in the rear that it would fix the hand brake problem. please explain, not sure you mean. at the moment the car has 2" spring lift, with the dropped hangers whats the likelyhood of slipping the tailshaft out of the assembly?

cheers joel

Joined: 04 Oct 2003 Location: Watagans

have a look at the rear leaves then have a look at the cable it sits above the leaves about 1/2" so if you get 2" lift blocks the cable wont refit again

and if youv`e allready got a lift and your getting blocks make sure there cut on a angle

and you will need spacers for the tailshaft

Joined: 05 Aug 2003 Location: Castle Hill

Dont worry about the handbrake problem yours doesnt work anyway joel ever since those stumpy arms pulled on it too hard at cabbage tree

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2003 9:13 am

STUMPY wrote:

so if i drop my hangers and extened shackles, do if have to extend the torque rod? when i cut the hangers off, can i re-use them or is that to dodgey? also it was said about the 2 1/5" or more blocks in the rear that it would fix the hand brake problem. please explain, not sure you mean. at the moment the car has 2" spring lift, with the dropped hangers whats the likelyhood of slipping the tailshaft out of the assembly?

cheers joel

Currently the handbrake cable extends from the lever on the rear of the backing plate on the rear brakes, the cable is on top of the springs. When you put in lift blocks, the cable has to go somewhere, and that has to be under the springs, so you need to put in a minimum of 60mm or so of block so the cable wont bind/rub on the spring pack.

I would keep the torque rod, it is very easy to extend/make adjustable.

Joined: 20 Oct 2002 Location: Greenbank, Qld

I have not run the torque rod, on my old (sold it the other day - yay) 4 runner for over 18 months, didn't notice a change in handling at all

you will not need to space your rear tail shaft, your front you will

do 2" drop hangers, 2" extended shackles, with your new hangers 1" forward, also redrill your spring perches for another 1 1/4" forward, so you will now have 2 1/4" axle forward, with your current springs

and with this hanger and shackle setup you would be able to use rears in front, but then you really need cross over steering

remember, once you do one thing, it could lead onto about 5 other items till it works

----- dropped hangers------
new torque rod (or remove it)
steering linkage shorten - or cross over to do it properly
shocks, will need to be longer
shock mounts
brake lines

----- rear -----
just block it, if the cable interferes extend the linkage

Joined: 26 Jun 2003

STUMPY wrote:

hey guys
i'm going to put blocks in between my leafs and diffs for a bit more lift but in the front the drag link rod and i think the knuckle arm is going to hit on the u-bolts. haven't put the blocks in yet but in know the ben hypolux has got them. it an 85 4runner so if anyones got any suggestions or solutions please comment.

cheers joel

Hey Joel, i'd be making sure that if you want too lift rig right tyres all the same size wouldn't go astray Very Happy

Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2003 6:56 pm

for an easy lift, you can just lengthen your front shackles, and put in some caster wedges to correct the caster angle of your front diff. If you after a quick and effective fix without extensive mods, I would look at this option first.

Joined: 15 Feb 2003 Location: Shed.

hrm does this mean the 4runner is visitng team special soon or are you going to get Carts to do the welding with his Stick Skillz?

hey that reminds me, tell Carter that Len threw out a stick welder, it's prob still sitting in the bin outside Old Kayver.

Joined: 03 Jul 2003 Location: sydney

Team Special would be my first options but there might be a few sticking points as shannon would say. i don't want to do a body lift because i doesn't give you extra gearbox clearance. Carter's cut and weld world tacked on some bars to stop the shackle inversions in the rear but he'll have to be quick to that welder, i'm on my way there now.