Bundera Lift (3rd Time!!!) (Body and Spring)

Joined: 13 Jan 2003 Location: Tasmania

Ok now that everything to do with my engine conversion is complete and in perfect working order (touch wood) it is time to give her some lift again.

So far I have run the 2" Series 2000 ("Heavy Duty Lifted") and found them to be quite good, incresing the flex and making the vehicle alot more stable on the road over the originals (i am running the originals at the moment cos i sold the 2" lift ones a few months ago).

After running them for a few months I wanted more lift so I ran 80 Series fronts up front and 2" lift 80 series fronts in the rear. BAD MOVE! The rear was way too high and caused too much vibration specially when i reinstalled them with the new engine.

I have never done a body lift before so that would be new to me...

I know the usual stuff that needs fixing, lengthing and moving with most body lifts but what actually has to be changed on the bundy when some of u did urs?

What problems were there and how did u overcome them?

So after all this I am thinking that I might go a 2" Suspension Lift and a 2" Body lift as I dont want any vibrations (especially like I got with my second suspension setup!)..

What would be the best brand for the suspension lift, as I had a great deal of trouble with Series 2000 with the car sitting unevenly.
I paid 150per pair for my 2" Series 2000 coils (new) through a mate...what should I be looking at paying for some of the other brands.

Regards,
Nick

Joined: 13 Jan 2003 Location: Tasmania

btw completly off the topic...Where can I get a set of those black plastic flares that most of the bundys have ??

Joined: 24 Feb 2003 Location: Melbourne

dude, why do you need 2" body & 2" suspension lift?

bundys are too tall and skinny as is, and you're only running 33" tyres. you only need 2" suspension lift.

daniel (bundy), my mate john and myself have done various tests..

put it this way, as you already might know - the 34" JT2's (nearly 35" tall) fit under the guards with just a bit of knocking the lips on the guards up

my mate john has 2" lifted springs, and I get the same amount of flex as him.

just do a 2" body lift, or suspension lift and be done with it, dont do two..

remember what happened before you put those massive lifted 80's in, I advised you it would be too tall, and it was..

if you intend on running massive rubber, go for it, but if you are sticking with the 33" MTRs, I seriously think you should just get 2" suspension

Joined: 24 Feb 2003 Location: Melbourne

I bet daniel comes and and says the same thing.. and by the way, I gave him the flares - you missed out Crying or Very sad

Joined: 13 Jan 2003 Location: Tasmania

Firstly thanks for your comments robbie....

Here is my reasoning...

" 2" Suspension lift " by all of the companies will not give u a 2" lift it is more like a 1" lift but much firmer springs.

I want the car to sit around 3-4" higher than it is now with firmer suspension. (firmer suspension improving handeling and the extra height getting the body out of the way of rocks and shit)
Now if I go and do all suspension lift again and no body I am most likely going to get a vibration through the driveline again. (BTW Replacing the stupid 22R got rid of all that vibration that most bundies get going slow say 4th)

This is why I am thinking on running a 2"suspension lift like kings springs or OME and a 2 inch body lift, giving me about 3" of lift and much better onroad handeling despite being higher. By doing this it is also keeping the chassie lower thn what I use to be doing, resulting in a lower center of gravity.

As for flex I am going to be useing long travel 80 series shocks with one of them being off a Nissan. I have been running standard 80 series shock for ages and they give far better flex than any bundy specific ones.

When I fitted the 80Series springs i never said that the bundy was too tall. I never had a problem with it onroad/offroad and I actually found it much nicer (firmer on road) than i do now with the original springs.
The only problem that I had with them was the vibration.. that is all absolutelty nothing todo with body roll.

Nick

Joined: 21 Feb 2003 Location: Sydney

when i did my 2 inch body lift the only thing i had to do was lengthen the fuel lines where they came from the chasis to the body under the drivers door. then got the low range lever bent so i could shift to L. everything else was ok. didnt bother with the bars, but ideally would have liked to modify the bull bar. with trhe 2 inch body and 2 inch suspension running 35's it was looking like a beast. but felt really tippy off road. especially to roll backwards... was fun tho.
BTW, dont break one of the sliding rear windows, they are a bugger to get hold of, they have to order them from japan!
also that cage is still here if u r interested. PM me, only have to work out a way to get it down there...
i bought the body lift from marks, but found the instructions rather plain. cost bout 220 i think.

Joined: 13 Jan 2003 Location: Tasmania

The flares that Napsta has are the ones that I am talking about by the way.
Thanks 4 the response Napsta!

Bugger bout the window....is that genuine toyota?

Wont be able to afford to get the cage in my current financial situation.. Embarassed

Thanks though

Just looked at some polyproplene rod (100mm wide) bout $120 per m (RRP) !!! You can buy it in what ever length u like thank god. I should be able to get mates rates on the stuff though.

Just getting some ideas....

Regards,
Nick

Joined: 21 Feb 2003 Location: Sydney

dont know bout the flares, they were on it when i bout it. mine are red, but after a bit of rock rash it was obvious they were originally black.

window was bout $100, but 2 months wait so i sold it without, got a crap price anyway but thats life! gotta be more careful in future.... bloody roll cages!
Ben

Joined: 20 Oct 2002 Location: Melbourne

BUNDERA wrote:

Just looked at some polyproplene rod (100mm wide) bout $120 per m (RRP) !!! You can buy it in what ever length u like thank god. I should be able to get mates rates on the stuff though.

Regards,
Nick

You want Ultra High Density Polyetheleyne rod 50mm wide @ $40/m.

Joined: 10 Mar 2003 Location: Newman WA

Quote:

also that cage is still here if u r interested. PM me, only have to work out a way to get it down there...

did i interpret that right that someone has the roll cage in the pic available...

am interested, if anyone else hasnt put there name on it, can pick it up at end of next month, coming to sydney to do some work for 3 months.

Also, i just got 33" Coopers with a 2" body lift, plenty of room, would like abit more height though, probly go the same 2" suspension lift soon.

Joined: 10 Nov 2002 Location: Melbourne

hey nick i would go back with the 80 series all round but just the stock ones in the rear, not the heavy duty ones. Or put the heavier duty ones in the front.... C how this goes with vibration as i have never had this problem but i do have stock 80 series all round......

I also have a custom Brown Davis roll cage for sale.... soft top or FRP only!!!

Cheers Daniel

Joined: 21 Oct 2002

BUNDERA wrote:

Firstly thanks for your comments robbie....

Here is my reasoning...

" 2" Suspension lift " by all of the companies will not give u a 2" lift it is more like a 1" lift but much firmer springs.

I want the car to sit around 3-4" higher than it is now with firmer suspension. (firmer suspension improving handeling and the extra height getting the body out of the way of rocks and shit)
Now if I go and do all suspension lift again and no body I am most likely going to get a vibration through the driveline again. (BTW Replacing the stupid 22R got rid of all that vibration that most bundies get going slow say 4th)

This is why I am thinking on running a 2"suspension lift like kings springs or OME and a 2 inch body lift, giving me about 3" of lift and much better onroad handeling despite being higher. By doing this it is also keeping the chassie lower thn what I use to be doing, resulting in a lower center of gravity.

As for flex I am going to be useing long travel 80 series shocks with one of them being off a Nissan. I have been running standard 80 series shock for ages and they give far better flex than any bundy specific ones.

When I fitted the 80Series springs i never said that the bundy was too tall. I never had a problem with it onroad/offroad and I actually found it much nicer (firmer on road) than i do now with the original springs.
The only problem that I had with them was the vibration.. that is all absolutelty nothing todo with body roll.

Nick

Sorry dude my supposed 2in lift from OME on a GU was 3 1/2 rear and 3 front after it settled. I know for most of their lifts in coil are achieving simular results. Maybe it is just a bundy thing....

Joined: 13 Jan 2003 Location: Tasmania

Ok I did a 3cm body lift (1.2inches)....now that may sound stupid but there was reasoning behind this. I didnt have to extend shit....so ARMS UP armsup

I got some of the high density polyethelane...1/2 a metre cost $25...so very cheep lift.

New Springs next week hopefully......after I get myself a new fuelpump...lmao

Cheers Nick

Joined: 10 Mar 2003 Location: Newman WA

i thought u were after 4 inches total lift over standard???

a 2" spring lift will only really give you about a 1 inch extra due to sag etc. and with a 1.2 inch body lift that will only give u abit over 2inches???

Joined: 13 Jan 2003 Location: Tasmania

just wait and see.... Cool

Joined: 24 Feb 2003 Location: Melbourne

he never makes up his mind The Finger