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Damo

Joined: 22 Oct 2002
Location: On a mission...
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Posted:
Tue Jul 01, 2003 10:17 pm |
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I'm getting to the business end of the rear suspension on my zook and now want to lengthen the trailing arms.
Initially I was going to sleeve them but anyone I have talked to so far has told me just to cut the arm, get the same diameter tube and weld them together just butted up.
This doesn't seem like it would be too strong to me but as a few people have told me it should work fine i'm having 2nd thoughts.
What have y'all done in this situation??? |
Last edited by Damo on Wed Sep 03, 2003 12:33 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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HSV Rangie

Joined: 26 Oct 2002
Location: Geelong
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Posted:
Wed Jul 02, 2003 7:43 am |
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Thats the bootie fab way.
I use 40*20 dom tube for my rear links.
Regards
Michael. |
_________________ No substiute for cubic inches.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
2005 Subaru R3 |
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Damo

Joined: 22 Oct 2002
Location: On a mission...
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Posted:
Wed Jul 02, 2003 10:19 am |
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Are they built from scratch?
I dont want to start from a clean slate, I want to extend the ones I have. |
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HSV Rangie

Joined: 26 Oct 2002
Location: Geelong
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Posted:
Wed Jul 02, 2003 10:56 am |
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Yep made from scratch.
If you dont want to start from blank, then you are left with reusing the existing components.
Go with your origonal option.
Michael. |
_________________ No substiute for cubic inches.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
2005 Subaru R3 |
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Bush65

Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Location: Lake Macquarie NSW
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Posted:
Wed Jul 02, 2003 7:49 pm |
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Get some hollow bar or seamless pipe that is a neat fit over the outside of the body of your existing arms.
Cut the arms in half, near the mid point.
Cut the hollow bar/seamless pipe to suit the new length of the trailing arm. Shape both ends like a vee ie <======> (or >======< ) with rounded points - square cut ends are worse for fatigue.
Slip the halves of the old trailing arm into the hollow bar/seamless pipe. Align the ends, adust the overall length and weld the parts together. |
_________________ John |
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Damo

Joined: 22 Oct 2002
Location: On a mission...
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Posted:
Wed Jul 02, 2003 8:25 pm |
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Yeah, I am leaning toward the sleeve idea. I have measured the arms with a vernier and they're 30mm OD. Is there something available in 30mm ID with about 2 or 3mm wall? |
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Strange Rover

Joined: 20 Oct 2002
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Posted:
Wed Jul 02, 2003 8:58 pm |
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Bush65

Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Location: Lake Macquarie NSW
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Posted:
Fri Jul 04, 2003 6:57 pm |
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| Damo wrote: |
| Yeah, I am leaning toward the sleeve idea. I have measured the arms with a vernier and they're 30mm OD. Is there something available in 30mm ID with about 2 or 3mm wall? |
38 od x 4 wt cold drawn seamless tubing
45 od x 32 id hollow bar
42.2 od x 4.85 wt (DN32 schedule 180) seamless pipe |
_________________ John |
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Damo

Joined: 22 Oct 2002
Location: On a mission...
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Posted:
Sun Jul 06, 2003 6:45 am |
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| Bush65 wrote: |
38 od x 4 wt cold drawn seamless tubing
45 od x 32 id hollow bar
42.2 od x 4.85 wt (DN32 schedule 180) seamless pipe
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Thanks Bush65!!! I'll try track down some 38 od x 4 wt CDS and give that a go. |
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The Lifter
Joined: 10 May 2003
Location: Drake
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Posted:
Mon Jul 07, 2003 10:07 pm |
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I used 30mm I.D.10mm wall thickness hydraulic tube on mine 2 years ago and haven't had any problems. |
_________________ Need a hole I'll dig it!!! |
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Damo

Joined: 22 Oct 2002
Location: On a mission...
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Posted:
Thu Jul 17, 2003 11:41 am |
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| Damo wrote: |
| Bush65 wrote: |
38 od x 4 wt cold drawn seamless tubing
45 od x 32 id hollow bar
42.2 od x 4.85 wt (DN32 schedule 180) seamless pipe
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Thanks Bush65!!! I'll try track down some 38 od x 4 wt CDS and give that a go. |
Found the CDS tube in the correct dimensions. Problem is I can only get it in a 6.1m length. Anyone want to buy some tube to sleeve their arms? $15/meter, 4 meters available, u pay freight. BTW, 6.1m length is costin me $100.
OR if anyone has a couple of meters of this stuff around are they willing to part with it??? |
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Damo

Joined: 22 Oct 2002
Location: On a mission...
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Posted:
Wed Sep 03, 2003 12:34 pm |
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