Gu lift & actually engineering it

Joined: 31 May 2004 Location: in the ghetto

Hi

i have 2" ome lift on my GU at the moment with the L-series shocks, and 35" (315/75/16) tyres but am wanting to go 5 lift" !

why 5" ? because 4" wont be enough when i go to 37" tyres and have been told 5" will be fine.

I have looked kits from mannell and can make up somthing myself pretty easy but getting it engineered is the problem most people down in melbourne (engineers wont touch anything over 2" and some only do upto 4" lift)

so my options were also to just do 4" spring and 2" body ?
also is worth using castor correction plates or actually re-weld and roll the diff forward been told to do this by cheezy ?

anyone in melbourne been able to succesfully get a high lift engineered without having to spend fortune on engineer certificates i'm expecting to pay any where between 400-700 for the certificate.

Joined: 27 Nov 2002 Location: Lost in Melbourne.

morkz wrote:

anyone in melbourne been able to succesfully get a high lift engineered without having to spend fortune on engineer certificates i'm expecting to pay any where between 400-700 for the certificate.

If your going 37's why bother with engineers on suspension???

37's wont get engineered, so your . anyway..

If you want the mods done, you have to pay.. no real way around it is there? $400-600 isnt much to save your ass gettin pounded by some big black fella called Cyril in a nice cell after you wipe someone out cause ya car is fubar isnt it?

Joined: 31 May 2004 Location: in the ghetto

bogged wrote:

morkz wrote:

anyone in melbourne been able to succesfully get a high lift engineered without having to spend fortune on engineer certificates i'm expecting to pay any where between 400-700 for the certificate.

If your going 37's why bother with engineers on suspension???

37's wont get engineered, so your ***** anyway..

If you want the mods done, you have to pay.. no real way around it is there? $400-600 isnt much to save your ass gettin pounded by some big black fella called Cyril in a nice cell after you wipe someone out cause ya car is fubar isnt it?

yeh fair point i'm not trying to skimp on any of the prices i'am wanting it to be done .... most places wont engineer high lifts and yet so many people are having these high lift kits.. is everyone not having them engineered? or is their someone out their who does them.

I mean i want it done properly even $1000 for engineering. it's piece of mind that it will be covered.

Joined: 24 Nov 2002 Location: Melbourne

Why do you want 37" tyres. 35s are big enogh for any tracks.

4" and 2" body lift is also as high as sensible. These are reasons why and engineer is difficult to get.

Driveability of lifts over 3-4 inches sucks.

Bazzle Confused

Joined: 27 Nov 2002 Location: Lost in Melbourne.

morkz wrote:

yeh fair point i'm not trying to skimp on any of the prices i'am wanting it to be done .... most places wont engineer high lifts and yet so many people are having these high lift kits.. is everyone not having them engineered? or is their someone out their who does them.

I mean i want it done properly even $1000 for engineering. it's piece of mind that it will be covered.

As bazzle said, why do you want 37's?? for the look, or you drive competitions?
1) you wont get 37's engineered ever - so go with 8inch sus and 4in body if you like, it wont matter, if insurance co want ot be anal they will, some people have 200 crashes in highly modded cars and get away with it. But if you dont your ..

2) lots of people had their cars engineered a while back, so was easier to get done than it is now with litagation - one engineer was gettin sued a while back, never heard what happened with that case. Thats why engineers are now tight as a nuns nasty on what they will pass.

3) What do you want the car for? Do you NEED 37's or WANT them?

Joined: 31 May 2004 Location: in the ghetto

probably could do without having 37" but thought it would have been good to have.

i just saw this guy in melbourne who was running 37" and so i was hoping to do the same.

yeh and no it wont be used for comp work...

so i'l probably just end up getting 4" spring lift and that should be enough for my 35"

Joined: 22 Jun 2003 Location: Location: Location: Location:

I run 35's with just a 3" lift with minor rubbing on the rear. Extended bump stops will stop that. With the 3" I haven't had to replace panhards or get castor correction. Which means you save about $1,000. Costs a lot for that xtra 1" plus it drives like normal, well pretty close any way!!

Joined: 27 Nov 2002 Location: Lost in Melbourne.

morkz wrote:

probably could do without having 37" but thought it would have been good to have.

i just saw this guy in melbourne who was running 37" and so i was hoping to do the same.

yeh and no it wont be used for comp work...

so i'l probably just end up getting 4" spring lift and that should be enough for my 35"

So its just for wank value and looks? 37s for daily driver, and just once in a while in the bush?

Gearing will be out to the shithouse, unless you do the Diffs, at ~$1500+, chances of gettin hassles are increased, but it will look good....

You dont even need a 4inch lift on a GU to get 35's under, you could with 3in easy.

Joined: 26 Oct 2002 Location: Ringwood East, VIC

Here is an idea ...

1) Find an engineer.

2) Ask him what lift he will be happy to cert and what he requires for that lift to be done right.

3) If you don't like his answer restart from line 1 otherwise ...

4) Get the lift done the way he wants.

5) Take it back to him and get it certified.

Easy ... Very Happy

Joined: 27 Nov 2002 Location: Lost in Melbourne.

Dude, dont bring logic to this forum, we will think you are a spy or something..

LMAO

James Bond 007 wrote:

Here is an idea ...

1) Find an engineer.

2) Ask him what lift he will be happy to cert and what he requires for that lift to be done right.

3) If you don't like his answer restart from line 1 otherwise ...

4) Get the lift done the way he wants.

5) Take it back to him and get it certified.

Easy ... Very Happy

Joined: 31 May 2004 Location: in the ghetto

Quote:

1) Find an engineer.

Thats what i believed i asked at the start as well as in my second post i went to VIC roads and got 4 page list of engineers and called just about most of them and the ones that did 4wd suspension said they were not interested no more....

I was asking if anyone knew some engineers that they had used to do these types of mods.

cheers

Joined: 06 Mar 2003 Location: Campbellfield

i know an engineer, i use him to do all my work.

i am running 37's with a 30mm body lift and 100mm suspension lift and they clear just fine Very Happy

all though i am just about to drop it down to a 3" suspension lift and lift the body up to 50mm

and you can get 37's engineered

but you won't on a your GU 35's will be the biggest

you could get 118's engineered if you know what you are doing

stu

Joined: 26 Oct 2002 Location: Ringwood East, VIC

morkz wrote:

Quote:

1) Find an engineer.

Thats what i believed i asked at the start as well as in my second post i went to VIC roads and got 4 page list of engineers and called just about most of them and the ones that did 4wd suspension said they were not interested no more....

I was asking if anyone knew some engineers that they had used to do these types of mods.

cheers

Well, as the list provided to you by Vicroads is very probably the only engineers that they recognise, I guess you won't know if it can be done until you call them all.

And, if after that you still don't find anyone to cert your lift then I guess you're pretty much ROOTED. The Finger

Either that, or just build it and don't worry about your cert. At least it'll look SWEET when picking up the groceries ... Rolling Eyes

Joined: 05 Jan 2004 Location: Snowy Mountains

The photo of my GU ute running 37's is on another post regarding lifts that was going around recently. I also have 2" of body lift but agree with what everyone else is saying - TOO TALL.

My car is engineered in NSW as it is pictured and is engineered in Vic with the 4"spring / 2" body lift combo that you also mention. The 4" springs will be going back in as soon as I get a chance. I've driven for over 2 years on the taller springs and try to convince myself every day that the handling is not that bad - but it sucks.

I ran 42" swampers for a little while which is why I went so tall in the first place but I think you'll find that a properly set up truck on 35-36" tyres will drive almost anywhere that you would want to get a road registered car anyway.

Work on the bumpstops and go the smaller lift. Handling remains good, stablility remains good, I can run 37" Xterrains and 38.5" Boggers under that setup (although have done a fair bit of fender trimming).

And if you are baulking at the cost of the engineers, definitely stay away from the 37's. At $400+ (most are $600+) the tyres themselves are significantly more expensive than the equivalent 35's.

My 5 cents worth anyway.

Joined: 28 Jun 2004 Location: newcastle

i was told by my engineer that springs and shocks are unable to be engineered? he did the body lift and bullbar mods though...